Family Road Trip: Taiwan
From Tainan’s city temples to the depths of Taroko Gorge, we take you on an immersive journey of how to road trip with young kids around Taiwan. It’s possible!
The spiritual landscape of Taiwan, as seen through the eyes of a four-year-old, goes something like this: if life is as colorful as the pineapple cakes in your pockets, trinkets given to you by passing monks or prayer ribbons scattering across the sky, then it is a good life.
It is the first stop of our round-the-world trip as a family of four, and we are adapting to the spectrum of new flavors, time changes and mutual admiration across Asia. For the next six days we would be navigating the deep gorges and dashboard Buddhas of Taiwan, and we would be doing it by Hyundai.
Read below for how we navigated a one week round-island road trip around Isla Formosa, or “beautiful island” as 16th century Portuguese explorers dubbed Taiwan.
Driving Logistics
in Taiwan
Before you arrive, make sure you’ve applied for an IDP, an International Driving Permit, in your home country. Pick up a SIM card at Taoyuan Airport for mobile data, map and booking options, and ask about GPS system in your rental car. If renting a car seat (which we usually do), make sure it’s installed properly.
Driving in Taiwan is extremely easy compared to other countrywide road trips we’ve done- highly organized, most signs are posted in English, and distances are not too long for the little ones to get tired of their car seats. We found Taiwan to be one of the most laid back and friendly countries we’ve visited, with most everyone speaking English, so stops along the way are easy and fun for the kids.
Fo Guan Shan Monastery and Tainan’s City Temples in southern Taiwan.
When to Go
Taiwan has a subtropical monsoon climate with a few rainy seasons, including bursts of “plum rain” in May and June, but it’s delightful to visit almost year round. We visited Taiwan in the spring which was ideal for temple visits, tea tours and hiking, cherry blossoms, a bit cold for swimming, and not yet in peak season, so we were able to book lodging on-the-go. Springtime also means a flurry of traditional festivals, from Baosheng Cultural Festival to Bunun’s Ear Shooting Festival, one of Taiwan’s biggest indigenous ceremonies.
Summer is peak season in Taiwan, which generally equals crowds and tighter booking windows, and September to November bring the changing of the leaves— one of the nicest times weather-wise to be on the island.
Where to Stay
When we road trip, we usually book on-the-go which allows our family— my husband is a travel photographer— flexibility or to change course in case bad weather strikes. With our SIM we can do everything from source family-run boutique lodging in the region, or with Booking.com and checking its travel sustainable filter. For the more intrepid or those with a bit more time to travel slowly, this thorough list of farm stays offers everything from harvesting your own organic dinner to gets a more symbiotic look at agricultural life on the island.
The Route—
Tainan &
Kaohsiung +
Sun Moon Lake +
Taroko Gorge + Taipei
Tainan & Kaohsiung
Beat the jet lag at the family-friendly Novotel directly next Taipei’s Taoyuan Airport. Part of the UNESCO Sustainable Tourism Pledge, there’s a swimming spa, a beautiful Taiwanese restaurant and our rental car was delivered directly to us. Save visiting Taipei for last and head southwest to Kaohsiung and Tainan, approximately 3 hours. The Fo Guan Shan Monastery is the grounds for largest bronze Buddhist shrine in Taiwan, and with its prayer ribbons and butterfly gardens is one gigantic, glorious playground for kids.
Exploring the grounds of Fo Guang Shan, a Buddhist monastery in Kaohsiung, Taiwan, Asia.
City Temples of Tainan
The next day, do a proper temple-hop by foot in Tainan, the island’s oldest city, former capital and cultural heart. Matsu Temple is the palace of Ning Jin, the last king of the Ming dynasty. Buy some blessed rice and receive a pocketful of fruit cakes from the curious foreman. Taiwan Fu City God Temple is just around the corner and if you’re not paying attention you might mistake it for a festive convenience store. Explore the giant Koi ponds at Chihkan Tower Fort Provintia, a former Dutch outpost during the 1600s.
Sun Moon Lake
Head north to the Sun Moon Lake region via the Dongshan 175 Coffee Road (approximately 3 hours: it’s a detour but I’m going to anything road the word “coffee” in it). Reach the Sun Moon Lake National Scenic Area by sunset, a massive modernist platform a la New York’s Guggenheim overlooking the largest alpine lake in Taiwan.
Do a morning hike up the paved forest to Ci’en Pagoda, explore the faux-Northern Chinese Confucian Wenwu Temple and sample the famous Taiwan 18' tea at the Antique Assam Tea Farm, originally a factory before farmers left for cultivating the more lucrative betel nut.
Sustainable Road
Tripping Tips
in Taiwan
Taiwan is a good international entry point into Asia, couple this trip with another journey on the continent.
Fill up reusable water bottles + pack any extra breakfast items (avoiding food waste and having to stop in a 7-11 for snacks) in reusable bags for the road.
Taiwan has one of the best recycling programs in the world and not a plethora of public trash cans. Keep your waste with you and ask your hotel if they can recycle it for you at the end of the day.
When staying in an urban center like Taipei or Tainan, consider taking the train or bus. The High Speed Rail (HSR) is fast, reliable and cheap, and there’s also regular rail link. They’re also a lot of fun!
Taroko Gorge & Taipei
Drive eastward to the Taroko Gorge via the (slightly harrowing) Central Cross-Island Highway, approx 4-5 hrs. The road was carved directly into the face of a mountain by Chiang Kai-Shek's Nationalist Army veterans in the 1950s, and the switchback is real. Discovering the grotto hikes, soaring hanging bridges and pagoda overlooks is just about perfect for little legs to manage. Try out the 4km Baiyang Trail or Swallow Grotto and over to the Eternal Spring Changchun Shrine. Spend the night either in Hualien on the east coast, or if If staying in the park check out Silks Place or Taroko Village Hotel.
End the trip with visiting Taipei. The subway is the best way to get around, an if you’re staying some more days, top up an Easycard at gas stations or 7-11s. There are maps and English available at most stops. The Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall is another giant playground for kids, Taipei 101 is a ladder to the ski, and the lights of the infamous Shilin night market will dazzle any little eyes and tummies.
Local Eats Tip: Spend a few hours in the Daan district, hit the Jianguo Holiday Jade Market, have some famous dumplings at Din Tai Fung Fuxing Restaurant and a coffee at surfer-vibe Swell Co Cafe.
All in all, Taiwan, would be a great launching point for a family embarking on a trip through various countries in Asia. The combination of infrastructure, friendliness, safety and size makes it a good first-round road trip option in a perfect landing spot.
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