Lucca with Kids: A Slow Adventure in Any Season

From climbing Torre Guinigi’s 230 steps to Gelato breaks on rotation, Lucca is perfect for families seeking a slower version of Tuscan travel— any time of the year.

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Italy. Just the name of this magnificent country evokes opulent visions of art, architecture, and landscapes.

The three-syllable word conjures the flavors and aromas of mouthwatering meals and the faint, poignant strain of an aria promising the cathartic experience of a lifetime. On the ground, the experience of traveling through Italy can often be overstimulating in a different way.

Throngs of tourists blocking iconic views, restaurants that cater to said tourists rather than staying true to their culinary roots, and all the hustle and bustle involved in packing as much into one day as possible, because there’s just so much to see. Cue the small town of Lucca. Located about midway between the Cinque Terre region and the city of Florence, Lucca doesn’t sit far off the beaten path. And yet, it somehow manages to preserve a sense of calm, quiet hospitality for those seeking a slower version of Tuscan travel.

Perhaps it’s the distinctive city walls that encircle Lucca, keeping most cars out of its cobblestone streets. Maybe it’s the sense of community these walls have preserved since Medieval times. Or maybe the storied past of famous composers and gold-and silver-threaded silk production tie the town together. But wherever Lucca’s magic comes from, this historic, pocket-sized haven is an ideal second-city stop on a family road trip or train journey through the region.

If school and work schedules allow, visiting Lucca (and Tuscany at large) during the shoulder season ensures even less tourist traffic and more opportunity for cultural connection.

Getting To and Around Lucca with Kids

Moving through Tuscany by train adds a whole new layer of charm, especially for young explorers. Lucca is only about 20 minutes by train from Pisa and 80 minutes from Florence. Its excellent train connectivity makes Lucca a good home base or starting point from which to explore northern Tuscany. Trenitalia has very affordable rates when booked in advance. Plus, kids under four ride free, and older children only pay 50% of the ticket price. Italian trains and railways are safe and well-maintained and offer the perfect window on the Tuscan landscape. 

When driving to Lucca, on the other hand, it’s good to keep in mind that the city has a car-free historic center mostly closed to traffic. Special permits are available to get inside the walls, but we suggest parking outside and exploring by foot. Since some cars do navigate the inner streets, pedestrians should still keep an eye out, but overall this makes Lucca a wonderful place to wander the piazzas and alleyways freely, especially with kids. Unlike many other Tuscan towns, Lucca has relatively flat, stroller-friendly streets. And its small size and generally high level of safety make it a great place for bigger kids to practice independence.

Exploring Lucca with Kids

The slow pace of life in Lucca gives parents with the rare opportunity to be present, take each moment as it comes, and savor la dolce vita. A simple stroll through the streets can provide plenty of entertainment. With its deep ties to music history, Lucca often hosts free opera or other concerts in the piazzas, and statues and other installation art decorate many a corner. The city wall is more like a rampart, wide enough for walking, cycling, and even sports in some areas.

And the grassy alcoves and slopes in its shadow leave plenty to be explored. For a lesser known view of the city, check out the doorways and passageways built inside the city walls, known as sortita.

Two-Wheeled Adventures

Bike rental shops abound in Lucca, and since cycling is so popular in this area, most have same-day availability. To name a few, Cicli Rai has a wide selection of bikes in good condition and La Toscana Nel Cuore right near the Piazza Napoleone can provide bike seats, trailers, and even bikes for littles. Once everyone has their wheels, the city and the walls are a great place to start, and the surrounding countryside, with its historic aqueducts and rolling vineyards, also offers plenty to explore.

Go Climb a Tower

Another great way to see the city involves climbing. The Torre Guinigi towers high above the town, tempting visitors to reach the summit in order to see the views of the burnt red tile roofs and pastel facades below and the mountains rolling in the distance, as well as the small stand of trees that grows right there at the top. The ascent of 230 steps is a perfect way to burn excess energy – a challenge and a reward all rolled into one. The Torre della Ore, another Renaissance tower in Lucca, gets its name from the Italian word for “hours” as it features a beautiful old clock that strikes the time every 60 minutes.

Gelato Gelato Gelato

For before, after, and during these activities: Gelato. Our favorite spots to pick up a few scoops include Gelateria dell’Anfiteatro and the Gelateria Veneta, but nearly every corner boasts a different ice cream counter, and it’s hard to go wrong in these parts. When the sugar high gets too intense, there is always another tower or wall to climb.

Shopping

Part of the beauty of the slow pace of life in Lucca is the way in which commerce still revolves around small businesses focused on one type of product. Without having to walk far, one can visit a butcher shop, a bakery, and a greengrocer and have the makings of a simple feast in no time. Supporting these mom-and-pop establishments often gives rise to personable exchanges to be remembered, and the unhurried ambiance leaves time and space for everyone in the family to try out new Italian words and phrases. A tip for total newbies: Shopkeepers will often say “Prego” when a customer enters, as a sort of “How can I help you,” and again after they pay, meaning you’re welcome. A simple “Grazie” goes a long way to bridging the gap between tourists and locals.

To get your mouth watering: One such local market to check out, Vecchi Sapori di Lucca, offers a scrumptious selection of artisanal Lucchese and Tuscan food and wines as well as olive oil and balsamic vinegar tastings. Etta’s Bookshop is a literary oasis with new and used books beautifully displayed in a light-filled space. Independently owned by an expat, the shop has something for all ages and interests. It’s always great to stock up on reading material for those lazy moments on the road and to support a local business while you’re at it.

Lucca has so many great independent shops to get lost in, but one more worth mentioning for families is La Vople Green. Specializing in eco-minded clothing, toys, and other gear, it’s the perfect place to pick up a new outfit, replace a lost pacifier or replenish supplies like sea-friendly sunscreen.

Lucca Year Round

Fall Festa di Santa Croce, the Wine Festival,

Winter the magical Christmas market decked out in lights and colors and Tuscan crafts galore, Il Desco food and wine experience (for the parents!)

Spring the Festa della Liberazione, craft markets in Piazza Matteotti

Summer Summer Festival, the best international festival in Tuscany in Piazza Napoleone

Playground Breaks

While the scenery and shops, towers and cycling, art and food should keep everyone mesmerized for a while, you never know when the need for a playground might strike. Having a few names of nearby parks in their back pocket never hurt a parent. On the west side, check out Parco Giochi at Porta San Donato for a decent assortment of swings, slides, and other features. This wall-adjacent park opens onto a grassy expanse with a view of historic buildings and an art gallery as well. On the east side, Parco Giochi Alessandro Bertolucci is slightly more basic, but has enough variety – balancing beams, bouncy cars – to let out some steam before climbing back onto the wall or sitting down for a picnic, perhaps.

Running Around the Piazzas 

Over the course of its patchwork history, Lucca has fallen under control of all kinds of governments, monarchies, and empires. The ovular Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, built during the Roman rule, has become one of the main gathering spots in town, and a perfect place for kids to roam while parents watch from the sidelines, enjoying a much needed aperol spritz or Pucchesi wine. Children might even meet and mingle with other little ones as they run through and around Lucca’s open spaces, chasing pigeons and living their best Italian lives.

Lucca also boasts 100 churches, a surprisingly high number for such a small place. The Basilica di San Frediano is deemed one of the city’s oldest and holiest places to worship, and dates back to the 6th century. A trademark gold mosaic and ornate bell tower tower distinguish this church, located just northwest of the Piazza dell’Anfiteatro, from the others.

Lucca’s Botanical Garden

As if the walls and their ample walkways didn’t offer enough of an outlet and a connection to nature, the city’s Botanical Garden welcomes passersby into an even more immersive escape from high season traffic, hot sun, and daily bustle. The beautiful, shaded gardens are open from March through November, and often play host to events such as lectures on biodiversity and seasonal workshops for children.

Where to Stay

We love roaming the streets and scrambling around Lucca all day, but the surrounding countryside also has plenty to explore. One way to combine both the rural and the small city experience is to spend a night or two outside the walls in a agro-tourism center, or what we might call a farm stay. Agrotourism has more of a following in Europe than in the States, for example, and provides a lovely opportunity to get up close with the cycles of natures and farming without having to get your hands dirty. For working holidays, check out our post on the organizations that can help get you set up near Lucca or almost anywhere in the world. But families that are happy to sit back, relax, and watch the horses go by might consider one of the farm stays in the region, such as Agriturismo La Conte. A great swimming pool and hot tub, tractor rides, breakfasts featuring delicious fruit and other products from their own farm, and an overall charmingly rustic feel make La Conte an excellent option. The historic center of Lucca is just over 3 km away.

Villa Casa Rosa, while not a working farm, sits nestled among vineyards and steeped in nature. The shaded patio for meals either homecooked or catered lives up to all the iconic Tuscan outdoor meal fantasies. With space for up to 12, this villa would make a great home base for a family traveling with grandparents, or another family. The villa has a seven-night minimum, which leaves ample opportunities for relaxing by the pool while also getting some quality time in Lucca, 5 km away.

Tenuta San Giovanni is another countryside inn whose private apartments each have their own patio and kitchenette. With sweeping views of the gardens and surrounding fields, a large pool, and easy access to hiking trails and nearby restaurants, there’s plenty of room to spread out.

Parking is free and a multitude of activities can be arranged, from bike tours to cooking classes. For those looking to stay even closer to town, B&B Il Giardino del Pettirosso sits right outside the city walls. Friendly service, light-filled rooms, free parking, and bikes available to rent add to the convenience and charm of this B&B. The outstanding breakfast is a great way to start a day before heading out to explore, even better in the summer when served in the lovely garden.

Lastly, for the full Lucca experience of sleeping inside the walls, Hotel a Palazzo Busdraghi offers a classic Italian lodging experience complete with stately furnishing and high ceilings, as well as some eco-minded upgrades. Book ahead to snag the family-sized apartment room.

Eat

It’s honestly hard to go wrong when eating out in Lucca. The small-town feel keeps eateries authentic and dedicated to quality over quantity. One of our favorites is Pan di Strada, a takeaway deli known for their fresh, tasty sandwiches. For a sit-down experience with cozy family vibes and staff that love to share local tips, Osteria da Pasquale and Cantine Bernardini are both worth a visit. Wherever your feet or stomach might lead you, be sure to try some of

Lucca’s specialties, a humble but hearty cuisine. And any visitor passing through has to taste the swoon-worthy focaccia, often enjoyed at breakfast. It’s always a good idea to check a locale’s opening times in advance as restaurants in Italy often close between meals. And when throats are dry and reusable water bottles need filling, Piazza San Salvatore has a beautiful old fountain whose waters may or may not have magical powers.

Day Trips Out from Lucca

For one-day excursions or the next stop on a longer trip, options abound. One of our favorites is Florence (aka Firenze) for its laid back artistic vibes in a more urban setting. Then there’s Siena, which resembles Lucca in size, but sits up on a hill and offers its own allure, from built up on a hill around a central, slanted amphitheater where horses still race once a year. Val d’Orcia? The hills to the east of Lucca are home to historic villas and belle époque Montecatini Terme where Puccini lazed in the warm spa waters. And, of course, the Cinque Terre - a string of villages perched on the cliffs of the coast - preserve a colorful slice of life little touched by the outside world. Best reached by train, this area also features hiking and walking paths along the Path of Love.

Each little pocket of Italy has its own cuisine and wine grape varietals, but rest assures, there’s more than food and drink to be had. From bike rides to agro-tourism, street art to gelato, Tuscany and the surrounding regions has something for all ages.

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