Family-Style Adventuring Taroko Gorge
Discovering the depths of Taiwan’s marble natural wonder— but first, it’s four hours of soul-rattling turns. And seaweed snacks.
We are flinging from side to side of the car on the rim of a pass 3,000 meters above sea level and Sia is telling me she's hungry.
Great. I fumble around in my fanny pack for some dried seaweed as Michael negotiates our Hyundai down the hairpin switchbacks of the Taiwan’s Central Cross-Island Highway. There’s a makeshift Buddhist shrine on the side of the road, a regular sighting here, and as if on cue I wonder what we'd be reincarnated as if we went toppling off the edge.
Taiwan is the first leg of our year-long trip and this road, carved directly into the face of a mountain by Chiang Kai-Shek's Nationalist Army veterans in the 1950s, is lovingly known as “one of the most dangerous in the world.”
Eventually we will snake down far enough to be spit out into the Taroko Gorge, one the great natural wonders of the island. As if the gods took a knife and sliced through it like a loaf of marbled rye, it gazes down into a flawless, cerulean Tiku River.
But for now, it’s 4 hours and 19 adrenaline-filled kilometers of soul-rattling turns. And seaweed snacks.
By nightfall we make it to Hualien on the east coast and plan to wake up early the following morning to beat the crowds. A power breakfast of sweet potato congee, sticky buns and other baby-friendly delights puts us behind and by the time we arrive at the gorge we’ve been bested by a few tour groups from Taipei, all decked out in North Face gear and walking sticks.
“They are here, like us, to receive the mystical offerings of the crisp mountain air. They just beat us to it.”
Luca gets mobbed by a group of women, dead set on flashing peace signs and posing for selfies. They give Sia some rice snacks hoping for a smile (no chance). It is this kind of selfie-stick spirituality we have come to learn (and love) about Taiwan, and perhaps across much of Asia.
This is Taiwan: plastic keychain Buddhas and ephemeral nature, all integral to the flow of life. We are foreigners, but we know we are loved. It is the best part of traveling the world with children: you are even closer to the love.
Taroko Gorge Tips
Public transportation from Tapei and Taitung are also available.
Check the official website for latest information about weather and falling rock.
If staying in the park check out Silks Place + Taroko Village Hotel.
Exploring Taroko Gorge
Discovering the grotto hikes, soaring hanging bridges and pagoda overlooks is just about perfect for a four-year-old to manage. We miss the 4km Baiyang Trail but trek along the footpath to Swallow Grotto (one of the best places to view the gorge) and over to the Eternal Spring Changchun Shrine.
Sia deftly compares the suspension bridge to Kung Fu Panda and my mom brain envisions another worst case scenario involving flying tigers and swords. Because, #reincarnation.
We make one final push across Pudu Bridge to Xiangde Temple, up past the vendors selling packaged popcorn and little kitsch deities, past the Bodhisattva known for protecting those in hell, to the top of a platform overlooking the river bend.
We survey the landscape from this perspective. It looks like rain. From up here, we could almost shake Buddha’s hand. Or at the very least, take a selfie with him.
Made it this far?
Read our Taiwan with Kids road trip guide.
Heading over to the continent? Read our essential tips for traveling to South and Southeast Asia with young kids + babies.
Read up on how we try to road trip with kids sustainably.
