Responsible Tourism In The Gambia: The Ninki Nanka Trail
The Ninki Nanka Trail is a new responsible travel initiative that's putting The Gambia's little-known communities and culture at the forefront of tourism.
Credit: Ninka Ninka Encounters
As Gambia’s tourism industry reckons with climate change, Covid and its image as a winter sun destination, an alternative adventure is being developed to showcase its unique culture and history, while ensuring that local communities are benefiting too.
For many in the West, little is known about The Gambia. As the smallest country on mainland Africa (it’s just 295 miles long and only 30 miles wide at most), the narrow country has been overshadowed by its more popular West Coast cousins. While Senegal, Ghana and Nigeria draw in visitors with their bustling cities, cultural calendars and historical landmarks, The Gambia hasn’t yet managed to craft a distinct destination image of its own - despite having plenty to offer.
When tourists first began visiting The Gambia, it was mostly by Europeans seeking sun, sea and sand to escape the winter months. Recognising this trend, the government designated the coastline from Cape Point to Kololi as a Tourist Development Area, a zone for hotels, restaurants, bars, beach sellers and market traders to cater to travellers. But issues have arisen as a result of its position as a winter sun destination and confining tourism within one area. Not only has it created a seasonal industry, but Gambia’s rural areas - some of the poorest in the world - have been deprived of tourism’s benefit. Visitors leave with a suntan, but without any awareness of the heritage that exists beyond its beaches.
Senegambia Beach, the Gambia. Photo by Wim van 't Einde.
There are other problems that arise from solely promoting ‘sun, sea and sand’ too. What happens when your main offering is under threat from climate change? The Gambia's beaches are disappearing, the result of rising sea levels, sand mining and a crumbling coastline. While efforts have been made to push the sea back through the use of natural barriers, it’s already coming back in, not only threatening the main tourist area but impacting rice farming and putting the capital city, Banjul, at risk of sinking.
Recognizing these challenges, responsible travel advocates in The Gambia are thinking ahead, focusing on moving tourists away from the beaches and towards something else: The River Gambia, a historical focal point and unique natural wonder that other destinations cannot compete with. The River Gambia runs directly through the middle of the entire country, stretching 700 miles from the Atlantic Ocean into the Republic of Guinea. The Gambia was quite literally drawn around the river, its borders defined by British colonists who wanted control of the waterway as a trade route for slaves and gold.
Baboon Island, Photo by Britt Weckx.
Running along its waters now is the Ninki Nanka Trail, a responsible tourism initiative that’s being developed to showcase the best of the country, while dispersing tourism dollars to its rural communities. The river cruise takes travellers on an immersive journey through Gambia’s culture and history, combining African folklore, traditional village life and riverside flora and fauna into a sensory, multi-day experience. Named after a mythical creature, the Ninki Nanka is said to be a dragon-like animal that resides in the waters. Stories vary over its appearance, but legend says it has a death-inducing gaze that can be avoided by carrying a mirror while you journey along the river.
The full cruise takes place over seven days, combining the river voyage with overland excursions to remote villages that demonstrate traditional Gambian living. In the community of Ndemban, travellers are able to immerse themselves in rural village life, joining a local family for a homestay and experiencing day to day activities; meeting the Alkalo (chief), helping in the vegetable garden, witnessing the blacksmith and craft makers at work, visiting the village fortune teller, and if lucky, joining the women for an energetic evening of campfire dancing beneath the stars. The community initiatives have been developed for interactions to be as responsible as possible, ensuring that the way of life and the environment isn’t disturbed, while money from the trail is invested into projects identified by the community.
Further along the river, voyagers are able to witness the plethora of wildlife that resides along the waterway. With over 550 bird species recorded countrywide, spotting a flurry of colourful feathers amongst the mangrove forests is guaranteed, while the possibility of coming across a crocodile or hippo (the largest remaining mammal in The Gambia) adds to the excitement of the journey. At Baboon Island, rescued chimps, monkeys and baboons can be spotted among the trees while learning about the conservation project that’s been rehabilitating chimpanzees since the 1970’s. There’s also the option to sleep on the boat overnight, an unforgettable experience that involves falling asleep under the stars to sounds of water wildlife and waking up to the sun rising over the river.
En route to the capital city, Banjul, travellers gain an insight into Gambia’s past. A stop at Kunta Kinte Island shows what remains of the British fortress where Gambian’s were kept captive before being taken to the US as slaves. The eroding heritage site is another victim of rising sea levels, but nearby, the town of Juffureh shares more details on the dark history at a small museum. Upon arriving at Banjul, there’s an optional walking tour of the city with the chance to stock up on gifts and souvenirs at the bustling marketplace where bartering is the norm.
