Lebkuchen and Local Economy
Nuremberg’s Christmas Market not only offers us treats and sustainable practices to drool over, it shows us that the holidays really can be good for the planet.
Everybody loves a Christmas market.
All religious beliefs aside, the smells of mulled wine and gingerbread wafting on the air, the lights a-twinkling, and the general hustle and bustle across cobbled streets create the perfect atmosphere to beat the winter blues. When it comes to peak-season travel, the risk of overtourism always lurks in the shadows. However, the Weihnachtsmärkte held each year across Germany offer a unique model of sustainability. Each market puts its own regional spin on the concept, but they all hew to the same core emphasis on local traditions, handmade goods, and respect for the community and the environment.
Nuremberg’s Christkindlesmarkt, one of the longest-running markets in the country, sets a prime and classic example of these practices. Nuremberg’s history holds its fair share of darkness, from the Middle Ages right up to the last century. But anyone who has visited this little city on a hill knows it has plenty of light and beauty to offer as well. Festivals around the year celebrate seasonal happenings and local bounty. Museums abound, showcasing everything from the art of Albrecht Dürer to the history of trains. And, right when the time change and the cloudy skies conspire to make everyone miserable, the Christmas market opens up its regal booths and the inner city comes alive.
This iconic market dates all the way back to the mid-16th century. Nowadays, people travel from all over the world to see the Nuremberg market, but tourists – both international and domestic– also flock to Berlin, Munich, and countless other cities and towns throughout the region. This means Nuremberg doesn’t get inundated with more visitors than it can handle, and the economic boost reaches a greater number of communities.
Germany’s rail infrastructure also makes it easy to move between cities by train (just book well in advance for popular dates and routes), cutting down the higher carbon emissions of short flights and car travel. Within the city itself, Nuremberg offers several public transportation options, from the well-kept and timely metro to above-ground trams. There’s even a seasonal mini train that carts sightseers around the circuit of main attractions.
Another factor that diffuses the bottleneck effect comes from the careful year-long planning and the simple fact that the market opens well before Christmas. This gives visitors plenty of dates to choose from and means not everybody descends on the city at once. It also provides the artisans and vendors, who rely heavily on this season for their livelihood, several weeks of earning time. And, lastly, the market opens seven days a week, from morning till night, which makes it less the site of a peak-hour shopping spree and more of an integral part of local life.
Now for the good stuff: food and drink!
Because a Christmas market would be nothing without sustenance.
There comes a certain time in late autumn when the streets of Nuremberg start to smell like ginger. The warm, spicy aroma originates in back-alley bakeries preparing a regional delicacy known as Elisen-Lebkuchen. This dense, celiac-friendly gingerbread is made of a combination of nut flours, traditionally hazelnut and almond, and a mix of the spices that passed through the city along ancient trade routes, becoming a common culinary denominator in the region. Star anise, allspice, and nutmeg feature heavily here. With a fine layer of marzipan or wafer underneath and a coat of chocolate or another flavor of icing all around, these cookies represent the holiday spirit, period. They often come three to a pack and make a great gift or treat to be savored later.
As if the classic Lebkuchen weren’t enough, wine stalls at the Christmas markets often feature cute little ginger snaps to snack on while you drink, and a third, more decorative version of the gingerbread can be found hanging at every corner.
The savory counterpart to the Lebkuchen is Nuremberg’s famous sausages. This storied bratwurst measures no longer than an adult index finger, but packs plenty of flavor thanks to the region’s signature spices. At the market, the best way to eat the little Nuremberger sausages is three to a roll, known as Drei im Weckla. Other food options include currywurst, bigger Bratwurst and Breze, gargantuan pretzels topped with proscuitto and cheese. Ingredients are sourced locally whenever possible, and a “Bio” stamp displayed at some stands indicate organic certification.
Even with a little food in your belly, standing outside in Nuremberg in the winter is no joke. Toes and fingers, noses and necks start to feel the chill fast. But Glühwein and Kinderpunsch make everything better. Glühwein is of course the famous mulled wine, flavored with blueberries and the region’s signature spice blend. And the kids get their own, fruity version: Kinderpunsch. With a mug of one of these warming beverages in hand, the snow and frost don’t seem so bad. For those extra nippy nights, grown-ups can request their Glühwein “mit Schuss” for a cheeky shot of rum in their wine.
Glühwein is of course the famous mulled wine, flavored with blueberries and the region’s signature spice blend. And the kids get their own, fruity version: Kinderpunsch. With a mug of one of these warming beverages in hand, the snow and frost don’t seem so bad.
With food and drinks being served at every corner, it’s a wonder that trash doesn’t stack up fast. But in Germany, the deposit system known as Pfand makes a big difference. With each wine or punch purchase, visitors pay a deposit on the mug. When the mug is empty, it can be brought back to any stall in exchange for new full one, or you can get your deposit back. The third option is to keep the festive mug as a souvenir. You’ve already paid for it!
Aside from the Pfand (which also applies to all glass bottles at the market), little details make big differences in waste management. Instead of handing out millions of tiny condiment packets, vendors set up self-serve mustard and ketchup pump dispensers. Napkins can be taken as needed, but don’t expect a standard-issue handful of paper with every order. Plastic utensils and straws may be available on request, but don’t appear automatically either. All this talk of trash just goes to show how hordes of people do not have to have a detrimental effect.
With smart systems in place, we as tourists and locals alike can love a place and leave it in good shape, too.
The food and drink provide the fuel to keep the crowds going, but the main body of the Christmas market consists of row upon row of beautiful wares. With the golden glow of streetlamps and fairy lights, the spruce boughs woven through the 18th century stalls and the shelves overflowing with holiday goodness, it really is a sight to behold. The products on offer range from wooden ornaments to paper stars, toys to jewelry. Many of these often-handcrafted items are made by local artisans from sustainable materials.
Eye-catching collectibles like ceramic villages and puppets made with walnut shells as heads all represent deep-rooted regional traditions.
While some products from questionable sources have seeped in over the years, it’s generally pretty easy to spot the difference. When in doubt, don’t hesitate to ask a vendor. They generally speak English and are more than happy to tell you about themselves and their products.
Pro tip: while Germany is slowly transitioning to more widespread credit card acceptance, it’s always a safe bet to carry a little cash when shopping, just in case.
Lastly, if you’re visiting with children, the whole family is in for a treat. Christmas markets often have a separate area just for kids, and Nuremberg is no exception. Just a few steps from the main market, the children’s area – known as the Kinderweihnacht – feels like a whole other world.
The glowing carousel in the center of the plaza casts a magic spell all around it. Aside from jumping on a majestic horse and taking it for a spin, children have plenty of other rides and activities to choose from. They can get busy making candles, decorating their own cake, or even learning how to stamp leather. Visually enticing educational dioramas illustrate how steam trains used to work. There’s also the Sternhaus that has daily theatre performances and other cultural activities, as well as all kinds of winter wonderland magic from stagecoaches to lanterns fill the air. While massive lollipops and Kinderpunsch beckon from every angle, and some toys are available for purchase in this area, the main focus here seems to be on fun over consumption.
From gingerbread to carousels, crafts to train rides, there are so many reasons to visit the Christmas market, either in Nuremberg or elsewhere in Germany. For us, the way this month-long fair seamlessly integrates sustainability into the core of its planning and execution comes top of the list. Wherever you find yourself this holiday season, whether it’s hot or cold outside, we send you a little bit of spice and all things nice from the heart of Franconia.
