Jordan Road Trip with Kids
Go beyond Petra and Wadi Rum on a self-drive road trip with this adventurous family as they explore one of the Middle East’s most intriguing, accessible and biodiverse countries.
Photos by Travel the World with my Kiddies.
With sweeping sands, salty seas and dramatic rock-cut masterpieces set behind a warmth of hospitality and safe infrastructure, families keen on gaining an understanding of the Middle East will love Jordan as a perfect introduction to the region.
Those rock masterpieces, known as the lost city of Petra, are famous for good reason. Designated as both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the new Seven Wonders of the World, the ancient city was founded as the seat of the Nabatean civilization and dates back over 2,000 years. After the Nabateans came the Edomites, then the Romans, each new society bringing fresh waves of ingenuity and expertise to the masterfully built structures still standing today.
But when it comes to visiting Jordan, Petra is just the tip of the iceberg.
This relatively small country tucked between Israel, Syria, Iraq, and Saudi Arabia offers a surprisingly diverse range of adventures— soaking in the densely salinated Dead Sea, camping in the desert, snorkeling the bountiful shores of the Red Sea, and so much more. Ever since the spice trade opened up the region to a constant stream of travelers centuries ago, hospitality has been a deeply embedded part of local culture. To this day, visitors are welcomed graciously all over Jordan. Plus, for traveling families, the stable political situation and high standards of safety make Jordan a great place to introduce youngsters to the amazing Middle East.
We recently caught up with Kris Ronsyn, an environmental scientist and passionate globetrotter who took her family on an impressive road trip of their own through Jordan. Kris and her husband Bart are deeply committed to traveling the world with their two children and to inspiring others to do the same, chronicling their trips on their blog Travel the World with My Kiddies.
Chockful of insightful tips, useful itinerary recommendations, and spirited enthusiasm, this guide would inspire just about anyone to pack up and go to Jordan. Special thanks to Kris, a true Heyterra soul sister, for sharing these trail notes with us and for manifesting our belief in the importance of instilling in our kids a love for travel, history, and nature from the very beginning.
Meet the Ronsyns
Hi! We are a family of four. We love to discover the world in an active way, with a lot of adventure! Jordan was high on our list because this country has some unique highlights like the world wonder Petra, the breathtaking desert Wadi Rum, and floating in the Dead Sea. Quite spectacular for such a small country.
We started our road trip in Amman, passed by the historic site of Jerash, moved on to the Dead Sea with stops in Madaba and Mount Nebo, stayed a few days in Petra (my personal favorite!) and ended in the Wadi Rum desert (three days without WiFi or phone connections—very challenging for teenagers!) before returning to Amman. Our kids were very impressed by Petra— they learned about it in history class, but seeing this with their own eyes was mind blowing for them. Spending New Year’s Eve at this spectacular place was the perfect finishing touch for all of us.
When to Go
During summer months it's simply too hot to travel around here, but from November until April, Jordan has almost perfect travel weather. December and January can be quite cold, particularly at night.
Sidenote: Heavy rain can occur during the months of December and January, which means that some of the Wadi hikes are closed because of the risk of flash floods. We were here during these months and had no rain, but there were indeed flash floods in other parts of the country during this period.
About Ramadan: Travel during Ramadan is certainly possible in Jordan. But keep in mind that closing hours of museums and tourist sites may be adjusted and it may be more difficult to find restaurants open during the day.
Logistics for Driving around Jordan
Safety in Jordan
Jordan is generally a safe country to travel around, but it is surrounded by less-safe countries, so we took the advice not to go to the border areas with Syria and Iraq. We don’t take risks, especially when traveling with the kids. Therefore, we did not feel unsafe at any moment during this trip. Only in the chaotic city center of Amman it was sometimes necessary to watch out (don't walk around in the dark, don't just get into cabs, for example)— basically the same precautions to take in other big cities.
Sidenote: The U.S. Department of State's website lists Jordan at Level 2: Exercise Increased Caution — the same level for countries like France and Germany. The current travel advisory is to only avoid certain parts of the country, specifically, areas within two miles (3.5 km) of the Syrian and Iraqi borders, any designated Syrian refugee camps, and the towns of Zarqa and Rusayfah.
Visas and Other Requirements
You need a visa to travel to Jordan. You can buy this upon arrival, but what you do need to take care of in advance is the Jordan Pass, which you can buy online. The pass gives you access to about 40 popular attractions throughout the country and also includes your visa so that upon arrival you only get a visa stamp but do not have to pay more.
Getting Around
Public transportation in Jordan isn’t well developed, so a rental car is by far the easiest way to travel around. It is best to book your car online with one of the major international rental companies before departure and pick it up upon arrival at the airport in Amman. It is not unusual to rent a car with a driver, but driving yourself is perfectly doable. The roads are good, the signage is clear, distances between the interesting places to visit are short— only driving around Amman is quite challenging, so a GPS is indispensable here!
Sidenote: Careem, The Middle Eastern version of Uber is a good alternative to taxis with bookable rides in Amman, Irbid, and Aqaba.
Customs or Traditions to be Mindful Of
Jordan is generally considered a carefree country with few mandatory rules, but like most countries in the Middle East, there are still certain cultural norms to look out for. Always dress neatly and covered, this applies to both men and women. In the winter months it can be quite cold, so you should be covered by warm clothing anyway, but during the warmer months wearing appropriate clothes is still something to take into account. Even young children rarely wear shorts in Jordan. It is not mandatory to wear a headscarf as a woman.
Sidenote: During Ramadan, make sure to refrain from smoking, eating, and drinking in public during the day and also be aware that some restaurants close during daylight hours.
Lodging
We always book hotels online (Booking.com or Airbnb). In Jordan, there are many to choose from, from very basic to very luxurious, from cheap to very expensive. Only in Petra is it important to book in advance if you want a hotel that is not far from the entrance of the archaeological site. The hotel we wanted was already fully booked 6 months in advance, but luckily our second choice hotel still had rooms available. If your hotel is further away from the entrance you can use your car (there is a large parking lot provided), but we still found it very convenient to have everything within walking distance. The camps in the desert around Wadi Rum can also be found on booking sites, again there is a choice from basic tented camps to luxurious camps that resemble futuristic Martian settlements. It’s important to negotiate with the camp where you book how to get there because you can’t drive in Wadi Rum yourself. They can pick you up at the visitors center or book a tour for you (or you can book a tour yourself) with a local guide.
Heyterra’s Jordan Eco-Recommendations
+Did you know Jordan is one of the world’s most biodiverse countries in the world, with five different bioclimatic zones? Visit Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature and Wild Jordan Nature Center while in Amman to learn more about Jordan’s flora and fauna.
+Learn about the country’s wetlands and its migratory birds at Azraq Wetland Reserve.
+Dana Biosphere Reserve along the face of the Rift Valley is Jordan’s largest reserve— if overnighting, stay at the Feynan Ecolodge or Dana Guesthouse.
+For a longer adventure, read about the 400-mile Jordan Trail, the country’s answer to the Inca Trail.
The Route— Amman—Jerash— Madaba— Mount Nebo— Dead Sea— Petra— Wadi Rum
We did a 12 day road trip in Jordan, which is enough for this small country. You don't have to count days to get around because you can drive from one interesting place to the next in no more than an hour.
Amman
Amman, an immense city built on seven hills, one of the oldest cities of the world, chaos too, but also with some beautiful and charming places. Here you can immerse yourself in the real Jordan. We did not stay here a very long time, simply because it is not my favorite city. Just a bit too chaotic and if your sense of orientation is not too good you can get lost for hours without having the slightest idea where you are! Our favorite spot in Amman: the Citadel! On top of a hill, you have a good impression of how huge this city actually is. The remains of the temple of Hercules look magical during sunset!
Jerash
This archaeological site is about an hour drive from Amman, making it a perfect day trip. The ancient city of Jerash was first Greek, later Roman and after this, Jerash belonged to the Byzantine Empire.
We walked around the entire site, which took us about three hours. Besides the largest number of columns we ever saw in one place, the site also has two amphitheaters and ruins that are still intact enough to put your imagination to work! As large as this site seems, most of the ancient city is still unexcavated.
At the entrance is a restaurant that serves decent food and it's not too expensive (yes, you do notice that this place is touristy!). We paid 10JD [Nearly 13 Euros] per person for a small buffet.
The entrance fee is included in the Jordan Pass. If you don't have a Jordan Pass, you have to buy entrance tickets at the very beginning at the little stores. If you don't have tickets, you will have to go back after about one kilometer of walking because at the next checkpoint they don't let you through!
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Madaba
The city of mosaics and a place of great historical value. This city was an important training center for mosaic artists in Byzantine times. In the St. George church you can see a mosaic map of the Palestinian territories from the 6th century. A little further on you have the archaeological park which is a feast of mosaics!
Mount Nebo
“Mount Nebo, where Moses overlooked the Promised Land.” The view from this approx. 750m-above-sea-level mountain is impressive. You can see as far as the Dead Sea and the Israeli border. There is a little church on the top with some beautiful mosaics inside. We liked these mosaics even more than those in Madaba!
Dead Sea
Floating in the Dead Sea – this was a real bucket list thing for us! Not only is this a spectacular attraction, it is also the lowest place on earth at 434m below sea level!
You can enter the Dead Sea at a lot of points, but if you’re traveling with kids it’s most interesting to visit one of the resorts. You pay a small fee and you can use all their infrastructure (yes, you need that shower afterwards!!). The kids can play in the swimming pools the whole day and you can grab something to eat here.
Petra
Petra, one of the seven modern wonders of the world and it really deserves that title! Petra is so much more than the familiar sight of the Treasury which appears in many movies. Be sure to plan 2-3 days during your trip to explore this ancient city, you will definitely need it, and maybe something to help with muscle pains, because the distances you walk here are not to be underestimated!
There are several hiking trails in the ancient city of Petra. In fact, hiking is the main activity here if you want to see the most beautiful and breathtaking spots. You can use a camel, horse, or donkey on certain parts of the Main trail and the Ad-Deir trail.
Petra’s Trails
Entrance -Treasury: 4K round-trip. A part of Petra that every visitor walks several times, but it didn't bore us. The path up to the siq is very beautiful, and once we arrived at the siq it was downright gorgeous! The path continues into the spectacular gorge that only seems to get deeper and deeper. The color of the rock makes the incidence of the sun's rays even more special. Just before you reach the Treasury, the siq is at its narrowest, which only enhances the first glimpse you get of the Treasury. Especially in the morning, when the sun provides a golden glow.
Main trail (Entrance - Quasr al-Bint): 8K round-trip, an interesting one to do with an official guide of Petra! It would be a shame to turn back after reaching the Treasury already. After all, Petra is so much more. To the right of the Treasury, the wide path continues past the Royal Tombs, many smaller caves and an amphitheater completely carved into the rock. You will encounter small bars in many places, so even if it is very hot here, you will never be thirsty! Beware of the price you have to pay here and there, though! After the Royal Tombs, the path becomes a wide avenue that ends at the two restaurants at Quasr al-Bint.
Al-Khubtha trail: 3,5K round-trip. Starts at the Royal Tombs and goes up until you have a magnificent (and free!) view on the Treasury far below you. This trail took us about two hours, it has a few hundred steps and you can buy refreshments along the way.
High Place of Sacrifice Trail: 3K. Starts not far after you pass the treasury and ends near the end of the Main Trail. This trail has about 400 steps and is very popular. Gives you a great view over the whole city.
Ad-Deir Trail: 2,5K round-trip. This trail starts at the end of the main trail and leads to the Monastery. It's a breathtaking hike (yes, also because of the 788 steps!), but very crowded. You can buy food and drinks near the monastery and plenty of stuff you don't actually need along the way.
The Petra Trail: 12,8K, starts at little Petra (small path on the left side just before you enter little Petra), passes the monastery (yes, by taking this trail you don't have to take 788 steps up to see the Monastery!) and ends at the entrance of Petra. This is the 'back door' trail and our absolute favorite! A local guide is mandatory on this trail.
Wadi Rum
The beauty and especially vastness of the Wadi Rum desert in Jordan is actually indescribable. The sprawling Wadi Rum has no highlights or top attractions, it is simply one gigantic highlight. Not surprisingly, the Wadi Rum is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The best way to experience this area is by jeep tour. A local guide takes you during a day or two to all the special spots, he cooks for you some of the most tasty food and you can say ‘ohhh’ and ‘wooow’ the whole day! Our kids absolutely loved it! It was a real adventure for them!
Other ways to discover Wadi Rum are by foot or camel, which can be charming too, but you can only see a fraction of the desert and that would be a shame.
